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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.